March 19, 2015
Got the bike on the jackstand, strapped it down, pulled the left pedal, shifter and front wheel. The bolt to hold the pedal is right in front of the engine case 14mm. The other bolts push out from the right side. Disconnect the shifter linkage (10mm bolt) then undo the two 10mm bolts that hold the kickstand switch. To override the switch, see those two wires coming out of the right connector? You need to connect them together. Cut, solder and heatshrink or make a jumper over the end of the connector.
I pulled the front wheel next. Undo the 6mm locking allen, pull it out then take a 14mm socket to the axle. When it comes out, make sure the spacers stay on there respective sides. The brake rotor comes off with a 6mm allen. Put some penetrating oil on them. I got three out of four of them out before my allen wrench actually shattered!
The front caliper comes off with a 17mm socket on the two tarnished bolts. (will clean later). Make sure you put something in between the pads so they won't squeeze in in case the brake lever gets squeezed. I'm sticking with the stock brake line until I get it finished then switch over to the Ryca line over next winter. The fender comes off with, yep, you guessed it, 10mm bolts. hold on to the brake line retainer.
The hand controls come off with a 5mm allen while the switches are phillips screws from the back. The clutch override connector disconnects right below the lever.
Got the bike on the jackstand, strapped it down, pulled the left pedal, shifter and front wheel. The bolt to hold the pedal is right in front of the engine case 14mm. The other bolts push out from the right side. Disconnect the shifter linkage (10mm bolt) then undo the two 10mm bolts that hold the kickstand switch. To override the switch, see those two wires coming out of the right connector? You need to connect them together. Cut, solder and heatshrink or make a jumper over the end of the connector.
I pulled the front wheel next. Undo the 6mm locking allen, pull it out then take a 14mm socket to the axle. When it comes out, make sure the spacers stay on there respective sides. The brake rotor comes off with a 6mm allen. Put some penetrating oil on them. I got three out of four of them out before my allen wrench actually shattered!
The front caliper comes off with a 17mm socket on the two tarnished bolts. (will clean later). Make sure you put something in between the pads so they won't squeeze in in case the brake lever gets squeezed. I'm sticking with the stock brake line until I get it finished then switch over to the Ryca line over next winter. The fender comes off with, yep, you guessed it, 10mm bolts. hold on to the brake line retainer.
The hand controls come off with a 5mm allen while the switches are phillips screws from the back. The clutch override connector disconnects right below the lever.
March 20, 2015
Today was a busy one. Have almost everything apart other than the front forks. The grips are easiest to just cut them off. The ends tap off with a small hammer. The controls just slide off from there. The handlebars come off with 6mm allen and 14mm underneath. The key comes off with a 4mm, the shocks with a 17mm. The starter solenoid is 10mm and is tucked back in there on the fender. I disconnected a lot of the wiring, tagged it then pulled off the rear wheel. 12mm wrench to the jam nut and lock, 17mm to the rear axle on the right and some monster nut on the left. (I used a monkey wrench but found out it was 24mm.) To tap out the axle, I used a 3/8" wooden dowel; it drops right out. Push the wheel forward, take off the belt and pull it back. Don't lose the spacers! From there, I popped the caps off of the trailing arm. Put a knife blade in and tap it down then pop it out with a screwdriver. Put a 17mm on one side and a 19mm on the nut on the right. Use a breaker bar and pull the nut off. Push the bolt out with the same dowel and the bolt comes right out. Pull the arm away. There are four 12mm bolts holding the fender. Careful pulling them off if the bike is on a stand. The back fender is rather heavy and the bike may want topple forward. Make sure the bike is strapped down!
The rear wheel conversion is pretty straightforward. If you already have the wheel, just swap the brake over, pull the rubber dampeners out, (Push them from the back so you don't rip the holding tabs off!) and snap them in the new hub. The rear pulley simply slides into the dampeners. I pulled one of the pulley bolts as I'm going to drill and tap the end so I can mount the magnet for the speedo sensor. I'll be mounting the sensor to the trailing arm.
I then went around the frame and marked with blue tape where parts were to be cut off. The only difference from what the Ryca manual says to do is that I'm not going with the foot decompression so I can cut off the middle mount completely. The rear cutoff parts are a bit tricky getting in to mark them. What I'm going to try is marking where Ryca says to, putting a small notch at those points then wrap string around between them. Bingo; perfectly straight lines! I'll mark from there and then cut.
I need to pull the forks and finish up the trailing arm next.
Today was a busy one. Have almost everything apart other than the front forks. The grips are easiest to just cut them off. The ends tap off with a small hammer. The controls just slide off from there. The handlebars come off with 6mm allen and 14mm underneath. The key comes off with a 4mm, the shocks with a 17mm. The starter solenoid is 10mm and is tucked back in there on the fender. I disconnected a lot of the wiring, tagged it then pulled off the rear wheel. 12mm wrench to the jam nut and lock, 17mm to the rear axle on the right and some monster nut on the left. (I used a monkey wrench but found out it was 24mm.) To tap out the axle, I used a 3/8" wooden dowel; it drops right out. Push the wheel forward, take off the belt and pull it back. Don't lose the spacers! From there, I popped the caps off of the trailing arm. Put a knife blade in and tap it down then pop it out with a screwdriver. Put a 17mm on one side and a 19mm on the nut on the right. Use a breaker bar and pull the nut off. Push the bolt out with the same dowel and the bolt comes right out. Pull the arm away. There are four 12mm bolts holding the fender. Careful pulling them off if the bike is on a stand. The back fender is rather heavy and the bike may want topple forward. Make sure the bike is strapped down!
The rear wheel conversion is pretty straightforward. If you already have the wheel, just swap the brake over, pull the rubber dampeners out, (Push them from the back so you don't rip the holding tabs off!) and snap them in the new hub. The rear pulley simply slides into the dampeners. I pulled one of the pulley bolts as I'm going to drill and tap the end so I can mount the magnet for the speedo sensor. I'll be mounting the sensor to the trailing arm.
I then went around the frame and marked with blue tape where parts were to be cut off. The only difference from what the Ryca manual says to do is that I'm not going with the foot decompression so I can cut off the middle mount completely. The rear cutoff parts are a bit tricky getting in to mark them. What I'm going to try is marking where Ryca says to, putting a small notch at those points then wrap string around between them. Bingo; perfectly straight lines! I'll mark from there and then cut.
I need to pull the forks and finish up the trailing arm next.