March 17, 2015
The battery box, airbox, carb and handlebar controls will be next, including getting the bike on the lift and secured. Pulling the wheels, fenders and rear suspension then dropping the forks should be in that order.
March 18, 2015
Yanked the battery box. It's held in by four 10mm bolts on the bottom. It's a little tight for a socket but they come out. The box is in there a bit snug but it pulls out from the right side.
The next thing is the airbox. Pop the ecectrics off the side and the retainer plate underneath it with two Phillips screws. Disconnect the hose to the carb and then there are two bolts on the top outside that hold it in place. The only problem is that the owner's manual never mentions the single 10mm bolt that is hidden behind the belt guard! The best way to get at it is to loosen the rear shock bottom mount (17mm) and pull the belt guard back (given that you undid the other bolts for it first!) then you can get a socket in there. Take off the breather tube on the front left of the box and the drain hose on the bottom. There is a zip tie underneath holding the tube in place. You don't have to cut it if you reach into it and undo the catch on it. (Didn't get a pic of the hose and zip.)
Now to get the box out takes some wiggling but you'll notice you slam into the carb. Well, go to the carb, disconnect the throttle cable, pull the little clip holding the cable on the carb and the soft metal wraparound holding the cable to the carb and then underneath and just in front, undo the connector band screw. You can slide back the decomp controller and the carb vent tubes to see better but it isn't necessary. The carb wiggles off. Watch out that there still may be gas in the float! From there, the airbox comes forward and out. Don't yank on any of the wires!
The battery box, airbox, carb and handlebar controls will be next, including getting the bike on the lift and secured. Pulling the wheels, fenders and rear suspension then dropping the forks should be in that order.
March 18, 2015
Yanked the battery box. It's held in by four 10mm bolts on the bottom. It's a little tight for a socket but they come out. The box is in there a bit snug but it pulls out from the right side.
The next thing is the airbox. Pop the ecectrics off the side and the retainer plate underneath it with two Phillips screws. Disconnect the hose to the carb and then there are two bolts on the top outside that hold it in place. The only problem is that the owner's manual never mentions the single 10mm bolt that is hidden behind the belt guard! The best way to get at it is to loosen the rear shock bottom mount (17mm) and pull the belt guard back (given that you undid the other bolts for it first!) then you can get a socket in there. Take off the breather tube on the front left of the box and the drain hose on the bottom. There is a zip tie underneath holding the tube in place. You don't have to cut it if you reach into it and undo the catch on it. (Didn't get a pic of the hose and zip.)
Now to get the box out takes some wiggling but you'll notice you slam into the carb. Well, go to the carb, disconnect the throttle cable, pull the little clip holding the cable on the carb and the soft metal wraparound holding the cable to the carb and then underneath and just in front, undo the connector band screw. You can slide back the decomp controller and the carb vent tubes to see better but it isn't necessary. The carb wiggles off. Watch out that there still may be gas in the float! From there, the airbox comes forward and out. Don't yank on any of the wires!
Just as a note, I'm going to take off whatever I can before I put it on the lift. I went out and pulled off the exhaust header flange bolts. FYI, they are 12mm. The other bolts are 10mm, the brake cable nut is 17mm, as are the mirror stalks and right footpeg bolts. The rear exhaust support is held in with a 5mm allen and a single 12mm bolt on the right. The allen on the left is tight to get an allen into (with leverage to loosen it) but it can be done. The brake cable has a few mounting bolts but can be separated from the brake light switch by pulling the cotter key out. The muffler is held on the bracket by two 10mm nuts.